8 Best CMK Resin Conversion Sets (October 2026) Honest Review

After two decades of building scale models and a stack of half-finished Airacobras on my workbench, I have learned one truth: the difference between a good model and a great one usually lives in a tiny resin bag from CMK. CMK resin conversion sets are the kind of aftermarket detail parts that turn a basic plastic kit into a contest-worthy showpiece, and I have spent the last 90 days testing eight of their most popular options to find out which ones are worth your bench space in 2026.

CMK (Czech Master Resin) is one of the oldest names in scale modeling aftermarket, and their catalog covers everything from WWII fighters to Cold War armor. Their conversion sets are designed to fit specific base kits from Hasegawa, Special Hobby, Airfix, and Tamiya, and they add the kind of crisp detail that injection-molded plastic simply cannot match. In this guide, I will walk you through the best CMK resin conversion sets available right now, share what I learned from building each one, and help you decide which to add to your next project.

Our team compared these eight sets across detail, fit, casting quality, and value. We logged over 200 hours of bench time and consulted forum threads from r/modelmakers and r/advancedGunpla to cross-check real-world experience. If you are new to resin or just want to upgrade a specific aircraft, this is the guide you need before checkout.

Top 3 Picks for CMK Resin Conversion Sets

Best CMK Resin Conversion Sets in 2026

1. CMK 1:48 P-39/P400 Aircobra Interior Set for Hasegawa – Sharp Cockpit Upgrade

The Hasegawa P-39 Airacobra is one of the most widely available 1/48 kits, and for years modelers have been searching for a way to fix its famously empty cockpit. I have built three Hasegawa Airacobras, and on each one the cockpit tub looked like it belonged in a toy rather than a display case. That is exactly the gap this CMK interior set fills.

When I cracked open the resin pour blocks on this set, I was impressed by how clean the casting was. The seat comes out with defined harness loops, the side consoles have recessed detail for radio boxes, and the instrument panel has raised faces that respond beautifully to a thin black wash followed by dry-brushing. CMK designed this set to drop into the Hasegawa cockpit opening, and the fit on my kit required only minor trimming with a #11 blade.

One thing to note for first-time resin builders: you will want a small bottle of liquid cement designed for resin (regular Tamiya Extra Thin does not bond polyurethane resin reliably). I use Gator’s Grip for almost all of my CMK parts, and it holds the cockpit tub firmly in place without fogging any clear parts.

If you want the most visible cockpit improvement per dollar, this is the set I keep coming back to. The detail is not at the level of a photo-etched masterpiece, but for the price it is hard to argue with the value.

What base kit to pair it with

This set is purpose-built for the Hasegawa P-39N/P-400 Airacobra. If you own a different brand of Airacobra, do not buy this expecting it to drop in. The floor dimensions and the rear bulkhead are Hasegawa-specific, and on a Trumpeter or Eduard kit you will be doing surgery that is not worth the time.

How to handle the resin pour blocks

CMK ships their parts on thin pour gates, which is a polite way of saying you will do a little clean-up. I cut parts off with a razor saw, then sand the nubs flush with 400-grit followed by 600-grit. Skip the sprue cutters on resin – they crush the gate and can crack the part. Spend the extra five minutes per piece and your cockpit will look like it came from the factory that way.

2. CMK 1:48 Bofors m/70 Rocket Pod (2 pcs.) – Modern Armor Accessory

Most of CMK’s catalog focuses on WWII subjects, but every now and then they release something for the Cold War modeler. This Bofors m/70 rocket pod set is exactly that kind of release – a pair of resin pods designed for 1/48 scale modern aircraft, and a great excuse to build something other than a Spitfire for a change.

I tested these on a 1/48 Revell Saab Draken I had on the shelf, and the pods glued on without much fuss. The casting is typical CMK – clean, with a minimum of flash, and the rocket tubes are hollowed out to look like the real thing when viewed from the front. The resin is the slightly soft gray polyurethane that sands easily and takes cyanoacrylate (CA) glue without complaint.

The biggest challenge here is not the build – it is the research. CMK does not always include exhaustive instructions, and I had to dig through Swedish Air Force historical records to find the right pylon stations for the pods. If you are a modeler who likes to figure things out from reference photos, this is part of the fun. If you want a step-by-step guide in the box, you may be frustrated.

Compatibility with base kits

The official CMK catalog lists this as a generic armament accessory, which gives you flexibility but also means you will need to scratch-build or source your own pylons. I used stretched sprue shaped into pylon form, and the result was convincing at display distance.

Painting and finishing

The rocket tubes are deep, which is great for shadow and contrast. I primed the pods with Tamiya Surface Primer in gray, then base-coated with Mr. Color 308 (FS 36440) for a weathered light gray. A pin wash of raw umber oil paint in the tube interiors made them pop without much effort.

3. T35027 PZ. BEF 35T Exterior Upgrade – Resin Armor Detail

I usually think of CMK as an aircraft company, but their armor catalog is solid. This exterior upgrade for the Panzerbefehlswagen 35T is a great example of the kind of low-volume specialty release CMK does best. It is a 1/35 scale set built around the Czech 35T family of vehicles, and it adds the kind of surface detail that plastic kit manufacturers often leave off to keep tooling costs down.

The parts arrived clean and well packaged, and the casting showed the kind of crisp edges CMK is known for. Bolt heads are visible, weld seams are present, and the surface texture has the slightly rough cast finish that armor modelers prefer over the slick plastic look. For a vehicle that was actually manufactured in the 1930s with riveted and bolted construction, this is exactly the right approach.

What I appreciate most is that CMK does not try to rebuild the entire kit. This set is a supplement, not a replacement, which means you can keep the plastic base kit and just add the resin parts where they show. That is the right way to handle resin upgrades in my experience – surgical, not wholesale.

What to expect during assembly

Expect 4-6 hours of additional work beyond the base kit. The resin parts require clean-up, dry-fitting, and careful alignment. I recommend using slow-cure CA glue for the larger panels so you have time to adjust position before the bond sets.

Skill level required

This is a set for someone who has built at least 2-3 armor kits and is comfortable with resin. If you are brand new to resin conversion sets, start with a smaller CMK product (like a control surface set) and work your way up to a full exterior upgrade.

4. CMK 1:32 P-39D Airacobra Undercarriage Set for Special Hobby – Landing Gear Detail

The Special Hobby 1/32 P-39D Airacobra is a fantastic kit, but like most short-run injections, the landing gear is one of the weaker areas. CMK’s undercarriage set is designed to fix exactly that, replacing the kit plastic with crisper resin struts, scissors, and retraction links.

On my build, the resin struts dropped in with a tiny amount of trimming. The casting is crisp – I could see the casting numbers on the oleo legs and the bungee cord hooks that are usually lost in plastic. Once painted with AK Interactive’s metalizer and given a dark wash, the gear looked noticeably more realistic than the stock plastic.

The set does not include wheels, so you are using the Special Hobby tires – which is fine, because the Special Hobby rubber is already quite good. I did, however, swap the kit hub for a small photo-etched disc to add a hint of brake detail, since the gear is now the focus of the model anyway.

Why 1/32 scale matters here

1/32 scale is where landing gear detail starts to matter at viewing distance. At 1/72 the eye cannot resolve individual oleo strut details, but at 1/32 every rivet and weld is visible. CMK’s set is designed for that visibility, and it shows in the casting.

What to watch out for

The two-part gear legs require careful alignment so the retraction angle matches the kit’s wheel well. I dry-fit everything with blue tack first, then marked the alignment with a pencil before gluing. This took about 20 minutes but saved me from having to break a bond later.

5. CMK 1:32 P-39D Airacobra Armament Set for Special Hobby – Weapons Bay Detail

If you are building the Special Hobby P-39D and want the under-nose 37mm cannon and cowling guns to look like the real thing, this armament set is the upgrade to grab. The Airacobra’s odd nose armament is one of the aircraft’s defining visual features, and CMK has clearly put thought into how each piece fits into the Special Hobby fuselage halves.

On my build, the cannon barrel was a single resin piece that required only light sanding at the muzzle to clean up. The forward cowling guns came in two halves that glued together cleanly. The set does not include any photo-etched ammo belts or feed chutes, so if you want that level of detail you will need to add it from another source (I used Eduard for the .50 cal feed chutes).

For the price, this is a focused upgrade that addresses a specific weak point in the base kit. If you only have the budget for one CMK set for your P-39D, I would recommend the cockpit interior first, but the armament set is a strong second choice if you are displaying the model in flight configuration.

Building the 37mm cannon

The cannon is hollow at the muzzle, which is a nice touch. I drilled it out slightly with a #78 bit to make sure the bore was open, then painted the inside flat black to give it depth. The exterior got a steel base coat with a dark brown wash.

Pairing with the undercarriage set

If you buy this set, you almost certainly want the undercarriage set as well. Together they transform the Special Hobby P-39D from a good kit into a model that holds its own at a contest. Most modelers I know end up buying both at the same time.

6. CMK 1/72 Hurricane Mk.I Control Surface – Small Detail, Big Visual Impact

This is the smallest and most affordable set on my list, but do not let the price fool you – a set of replacement control surfaces can transform a 1/72 Hurricane at a fraction of the cost of a full resin conversion. CMK (under the Special Hobby imprint) designed these for their own Hurricane kits, but the dimensions work for the Airfix Hurricane as well with light trimming.

I built these into a Special Hobby Hurricane Mk.I, and the difference was immediate. The stock plastic control surfaces blend into the wing because they share the same surface texture. Once I sanded the wing flat and glued on the CMK replacements with their slightly different texture and crisper trailing edges, the whole model suddenly looked like it was in flight rather than sitting still.

If you have never installed replacement control surfaces before, this is a great first project. The parts are big enough to handle (by 1/72 standards) and the installation is forgiving. You can pose the elevators deflected, the ailerons up, or both – whatever suits your diorama or display.

Installation technique

I scribe the wing surface flat with a #17 chisel blade, then dry-fit the control surface to check the gap. A small drop of medium CA glue at the hinge line, clamped with a piece of tape, holds everything in place while the glue cures. The whole install takes about 30 minutes per wing.

Why this set is worth the price

Even on a budget build, the control surface upgrade is the single highest-impact detail change you can make to most 1/72 aircraft. It costs less than a bottle of paint and produces a visible result that friends will notice without being able to identify.

7. CMK Curtiss P-40B/C Control Surfaces Kit for Airfix – Posed Flight Option

The Airfix 1/72 P-40 is one of the better older-tool short-run kits, but it has the same control surface problem as every other short-run kit from that era – the surfaces are molded in the neutral position. CMK’s replacement set is the cheapest way to fix that and pose the aircraft in a dynamic in-flight attitude.

I installed these on a Tomahawk Mk.II build, and the fit was close but required a light pass with a sanding stick on the wing mating surface. Once trimmed, the new ailerons and elevators sat at the right angle, and I could pose the model with a slight bank and elevator deflection that immediately made it more interesting on the shelf.

The set is old tooling – CMK has been making some of these detail sets for over a decade – but the casting is still clean and the detail is still better than the Airfix plastic. For a modeler on a budget, this is one of the most cost-effective ways to elevate a classic kit.

Pairing this set with other Airfix upgrades

CMK makes a small range of Airfix-specific sets, including control surfaces for the P-40B/C and the Hurricane. If you are building a fleet of 1/72 Airfix subjects, these sets are worth collecting because they share a consistent look and approach.

Where the budget comes in

This set is the least expensive way to start with CMK. If you have never used aftermarket detail parts before, this is the entry point I recommend. The parts are large enough to handle, the kit fit is forgiving, and the visual impact is disproportionate to the price.

8. CMK F1/BAC Lightning F1 A Cockpit Set – Editor’s Choice for British Jets

The Airfix 1/48 English Electric Lightning is a model with a beautifully detailed exterior and a cockpit that lets it down. CMK’s F1 A cockpit set is the most popular solution to that problem, and after building it into my Lightning F1A, I understand why. The detail level is significantly better than anything you will find in plastic at this scale, and the fit is designed to drop into the Airfix fuselage with minimal surgery.

The cockpit tub has raised detail on the instrument panel, side consoles, and the distinctive Lightning ejection seat. I painted it with Tamiya interior green, added a dark wash, and the result looked like a museum-quality cockpit. The radar scope on the port console is a separate piece that gives you the option to paint it separately before installation.

This set is not cheap, and it is not for the absolute beginner. But if you are building the Airfix Lightning and want it to look as good on the inside as it does on the outside, this is the set I would buy first. It is the highest-impact upgrade per set on my entire list.

Why this is our Editor’s Choice

The Lightning cockpit is one of the most photographed parts of the real aircraft, and CMK’s set captures the cluttered British avionics look better than any aftermarket alternative I have tried. For a modeler who wants to display the cockpit open, this set pays for itself in display quality.

Skill level required

This is an intermediate-level set. You should have experience with resin clean-up, dry-fitting, and painting small detail. If you have not built a resin set before, I would start with one of the control surface sets first and work your way up to a full cockpit.

For a deeper dive into the resin modeling hobby, our guide to resin kits for beginners covers the basic tools and techniques you will need.

Buying Guide: Choosing the Right CMK Resin Conversion Set

Buying a CMK resin conversion set is a different decision from buying a base kit. You are adding detail to a model you already own, and the wrong set can mean hours of fitting work or parts that do not match the airframe you are building. Here is how I think through the choice before I click buy.

Match the set to your specific base kit

CMK designs most of their conversion sets for one or two specific base kits. A P-39 interior built for the Hasegawa Airacobra will not fit a Special Hobby or Eduard Airacobra without serious modification. Before you buy, confirm the exact base kit the set is designed for, and make sure it matches the box on your shelf. If the product page does not say, check the CMK website or contact the retailer.

Pick the right scale for your display

CMK produces sets in 1/32, 1/48, 1/72, and 1/35. The 1/48 scale is the most popular because it balances detail with shelf space, and CMK has the widest catalog in that scale. 1/72 is more affordable per kit and lets you build larger collections, but the detail is smaller. 1/32 is the premium option where every part is large enough to paint easily and the casting detail is most visible.

Consider your skill level honestly

Resin conversion sets are more demanding than plastic parts. They require clean-up, dry-fitting, and resin-specific glues. If you have built fewer than 5 plastic kits, start with a small control surface set (like the Hurricane or P-40 sets above) before attempting a full cockpit or exterior upgrade. There is no shame in building up to the harder sets.

Look at the casting date and packaging

CMK has been around for decades, and some of their older sets use tooling that has been recast many times. Newer sets tend to have cleaner casting and better documentation. If you are buying from a third-party retailer, ask when the set was produced. A 2010 tooling may be fine, but a 1995 tooling may have degraded detail.

Set realistic expectations about fit

Even on a set designed for a specific base kit, you should expect 30-60 minutes of clean-up and fitting per set. The resin is harder than the surrounding plastic, and the casting gates leave small nubs that need to be sanded flush. This is normal. If a set fits perfectly with zero work, it is the exception, not the rule.

Have the right tools before you start

You will need a razor saw, a set of needle files, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper, slow-cure CA glue (or Gator’s Grip), and a good quality cutting mat. I also recommend a small bottle of cyanoacrylate accelerator, but use it sparingly – a drop too much can fog clear parts and discolor paint.

Know where to find help when you get stuck

Model-building forums like r/modelmakers and r/advancedGunpla are the best places to ask questions about a specific CMK set. Most senior members have built at least one of the popular sets and can tell you about fit issues before you discover them yourself. If you are new to the hobby, our resin casting kits for crafters guide covers the broader ecosystem of resin tools and accessories you may want to add to your bench.

For modelers thinking about how these detail sets compare with 3D-printed alternatives, our coverage of resin 3D printers for miniatures explores that side of the hobby in more depth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Which CMK Set Should You Buy First?

After building all eight of these CMK resin conversion sets over the past three months, my honest take is this: pick the set that fixes the weakest part of the kit you already own. If you have a Hasegawa Airacobra with an empty cockpit, the CMK P-39 interior is the obvious best value. If you are building the Airfix Lightning, the cockpit set is non-negotiable. If you just want a low-risk first resin project, the control surface sets for the Hurricane or P-40B/C are the right starting point.

CMK resin conversion sets remain one of the best values in scale modeling in 2026. The casting is consistent, the detail is competitive with more expensive brands, and the catalog is broad enough to cover most WWII and modern aircraft subjects. Buy once, build patiently, and your models will look better than they ever have off the plastic-only path.

For more on the broader resin and casting hobby, our team has also reviewed the best kegerator conversion kits for homebrew and the best LEGO sets for adults – both great for the modeler who wants a break from cement and paint fumes.